In a country celebrated for its four distinct seasons, Japan adds a fifth, lesser-known season that bridges spring and summer: tsuyu, the rainy season. For travelers planning a visit between May and July, understanding this meteorological phenomenon can make the difference between continuous rain-soaked days and a memorable experience filled with seasonal charm.
Tsuyu may bring challenges for travelers, but it also reveals a side of Japan that many visitors miss. From verdant landscapes to unique seasonal traditions, Japan’s rainy season offers authentic experiences and memories that extend far beyond the typical tourist itinerary. With proper preparation and a flexible attitude, you might find yourself embracing tsuyu.
Introduction to Tsuyu: Japan’s Rainy Season
What Is Tsuyu?
Tsuyu, translating to “plum rain,” earned its poetic name because it coincides with the ripening of Japanese plums. Unlike the gentle spring showers of April, tsuyu brings a more persistent pattern of rainfall and notoriously high humidity that blankets most of the Japanese archipelago.
This distinctive weather pattern is characterized by prolonged rainfall and high humidity, affecting most of the country with the exception of Hokkaido. While it doesn’t typically rain all day, every day, you can expect frequent showers and muggy conditions. Unlike the monsoons of Southeast Asia, Japan’s tsuyu is generally milder, with periods of sunshine interspersed between rainy spells.
Hakone Shrine
Rainy Season Timeline Across Japan
One of the most important things to understand about tsuyu is that it doesn’t arrive simultaneously throughout Japan. The onset and end of tsuyu vary significantly depending on geographical location. Generally, the rainy season moves from south to north.
Southern Japan: Okinawa, Kyushu and Shikoku (May–July)
As Japan’s southernmost prefectures, Okinawa and Kyushu’s Kagoshima — its southern Amami Islands, at least — are the first to experience tsuyu, typically starting in mid-May and lasting until late June. While you’ll encounter rain, it’s often in the form of sudden showers rather than continuous downpours, and the warmth still makes it possible to enjoy some activities.
The rest of southern Kyushu usually sees the rainy season begin in late May to early June, often slightly earlier than the rest of mainland Japan, and conclude by mid-July.
Shikoku generally experiences the rainy season from early June to mid-July.
Southern and Central Honshu: Chugoku, Chubu, Kansai, Kanto (June–July)
For most travelers visiting Japan’s major cities, the rainy season arrives in early June and extends into mid-July.
Chugoku (western Honshu): The Chugoku region generally experiences tsuyu from early June to mid-July.
Kansai (including Osaka, Kyoto, Nara): Similar to Chugoku, the Kansai region’s rainy season typically spans early June to mid-July.
Kanto (including Tokyo): Tokyo and the wider Kanto region usually enter tsuyu in early June, with the season wrapping up by mid-July. While it might feel damp and humid, prolonged sunny breaks (known as tsuyu no nakayasumi) are also common.
In Tokyo specifically, the rainy season brings a different rhythm to the city. While morning commutes might be accompanied by drizzle, afternoons can clear up unexpectedly, offering windows of opportunity for sightseeing.
Northeastern Honshu: Tohoku (June–August)
The rainy season reaches Tohoku later, often starting in mid-June to late June and sometimes extending into late July or even early August, though it can be less intense than in the south.
Hokkaido (The Exception)
Notably, Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido does not experience a distinct tsuyu rainy season. While it will still have rainy days, it avoids the prolonged, humid conditions that characterize tsuyu in the rest of the country. This makes Hokkaido a popular escape for those looking to avoid the humidity during June and July.
What To Expect During Tsuyu
Understanding what tsuyu actually feels like can help travelers prepare mentally and physically for their visit.
Weather Patterns and Typical Conditions
Humidity: You can expect high humidity levels across most of Japan, making the air feel sticky and heavy, even on non-rainy days.
Temperatures: Temperatures can be warm, often ranging from 22–30 degrees Celsius (72–86 degrees Fahrenheit).
Rainfall: Rain can vary from light drizzle to heavy downpours. It’s not uncommon for it to rain for several days, but it rarely rains continuously all day long. There will often be breaks in the rain.
Typhoons: While the main typhoon season is from July to October, early typhoons can occasionally occur in southern Japan from June onward.
Unexpected Sunny Breaks (Tsuyu no Nakayasumi)
One of the silver linings of tsuyu is the phenomenon known as “tsuyu no nakayasumi” or “breaks in the rainy season.” These are periods lasting from a few days to over a week when high-pressure systems temporarily push away the rain front, resulting in clear, sunny days.
These breaks are unpredictable but welcomed by locals and visitors alike. They offer opportunities to enjoy outdoor activities and sightseeing without the constant concern of rainfall.
Intense Humidity
For many visitors, especially those from drier climates, the humidity during tsuyu can be more challenging than the rain itself. The air feels heavy and sticky, making even short walks potentially sweaty affairs. The humidity can also affect energy levels and appetite, so don’t be surprised if you feel a bit sluggish or like skipping a meal. But do keep eating — and drinking — to avoid heatstroke.
Indoors, you’ll sometimes encounter powerful air conditioning in public spaces, creating dramatic temperature differences between indoor and outdoor environments. This makes layering essential even during the warm season.
Kenninji Temple in Kyoto
Making the Most of Rainy Season in Japan
Don’t let the rain deter you! Tsuyu offers a unique perspective on Japan, with lush greenery, fewer crowds at popular attractions and the vibrant blooms of hydrangeas.
Essential Packing and Preparation Tips
Compact umbrella: A high-quality, wind-resistant compact umbrella is a must-have and can be easily purchased at convenience stores (conbini) across Japan for around ¥500–¥800.
Waterproof footwear: Waterproof sneakers or stylish rubber flats with a good grip are highly recommended. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or suede.
Lightweight rain jacket or poncho: A breathable, quick-drying rain jacket or poncho is invaluable.
Quick-drying clothing: Synthetic, moisture-wicking fabrics are your friend. Layers are key, as indoor air conditioning can be quite strong.
Mini towel and small waterproof bag: These small but mighty items are essential for wiping off moisture and protecting electronics.
Rainy Season Attractions and Activities
Japan offers numerous ways to enjoy the rainy season:
- Museum hopping: Delve into Tokyo’s world-class museums, the perfect indoor sanctuaries on rainy days.
- Hot springs (onsen): Savor the magical serenity of soaking in a hot spring while listening to the pitter-patter of rain outside.
- Depachika food halls: Explore the basement food floors of department stores for a culinary adventure protected from the elements.
- Traditional teahouses: Experience the tranquility of a Japanese tea ceremony while raindrops create natural music on temple roofs.
You can also check out our curated guide on the best indoor activities in Tokyo for rainy days.
Seasonal Specialties: Hydrangeas and Beyond
Tsuyu’s silver lining is undoubtedly the spectacular blossoms of hydrangeas (ajisai) that paint Japan in shades of blue, purple and pink during this season. These flowers thrive in the humid conditions, creating stunning displays in gardens and temples across the country.
Check out our extensive guides to the best hydrangea spots across Japan and best hydrangea spots across Tokyo.
Beyond flowers, tsuyu brings seasonal foods like melons, the season’s namesake Japanese plums (pronounced “ume” in this case and not eaten raw but rather processed into umeboshi, umeshu and other slightly tart yet truly tasty treats) and the first harvests of sweetfish (ayu).
