with Elizabeth Andoh 

The rainy season is upon us and muggy damp days are broken with occasionally chilly damp days.

A new approach to meat and potatoes (served warm on the chilly days; room temperature or chilled on the muggy days) will hopefully help you get through it all.

YAKI-BUTA (Oriental pork “pot roast”)


  • 500-600 crams pork loin, rolled
  • 1-1 1/2 tablespoons oil or lard
  • 1 1/2 cups water
  • 1/3 cup shoyu
  • 1/3 cup sake
  • 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 3 whole black  pepper-corns (optional)
  • 5-6 slices fresh ginger-root (each slice ap­proximately 1 x 2 x 1/4 inch)
  • 2-3 naganegi (leeks) or 3-4 wakegi (scallions) cut into 2-inch lengths (use white and green sections)


1. In a large, heavy pot, brown the meat on all sides (in the oil or lard) over high heat.

2. Add the water (watch out for splattering) and re­duce the heat. Add the shoyu, sake, salt and pep­per.

3. Add the gingerroot, and onions and continue to simmer, partially covered, for about 1 hour. Stir and turn the meat occasionally.

4. Remove the meat and slice (it will be easier to slice when the meat has cooled down) it thinly. Re­serve the remaining cooking juices and strain them.

5. Use the reserved juices to make a hot gravy (add 1 teaspoon each of water and cornstarch previously mixed and heat thru, stir­ring until thickened) or as a base for an aspic.


1. Already rolled and tied pork pot roasts are usually called “yaki-buta yo” (“for the purpose of making yaki-buta”) or “buroku” (“block”) meat. It’s usually measured and the price determined by weight (about ¥150-180 per 100 grams).

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SHIN-JAGAIMO NO YOROI NI (new potatoes, boiled and seasoned)


  • 10-12 small, new pota­toes (or 3-4 large ones)
  • 4-5 tablespoons sugar
  • 2-3 tablespoons shoyu


1. Peel the potatoes and cut them in half (or quarters if large). Boil them until soft (a toothpick easily goes through the core) in lightly salted water.

2. Drain the boiled pota­toes and return them to the pot. Add the sugar (sprinkle over the top) and stir to distribute. Then add the shoyu and stir again.

3. Cook, shaking the pot, over medium heat until the potatoes “dry out” and are colored. The potatoes will become slightly crumbly. Serve in small individual mounds warm, or at room temperature.