The ryokan started as a restaurant tucked away in Tokyo’s Shinagawa ward under the name of Kanazawa-en and was moved to Yokohama in 1930. It was registered as a Tangible Cultural Property in 2004 for its use of traditional architectural techniques using joinery and no nails. You’ll find Café & Dining Botan inside the ryokan, with a stunning view of exposed wooden beams above. Recently renovated, Kitaya Ryokan retains much of its original charm and makes good use of its space – it features hostel-style lodgings, as well as the restaurant and café. We recommend the lunch gyunabe course (gyunabe is the precursor to sukiyaki and was first conceived in Yokohama, where it retains its original name) with plenty of vegetables and mushrooms – and of course, tender slices of beef. Reservations for the restaurant aren’t required, but are recommended as seats fill up fast.