Kappabashi is a neighborhood best known for two things: kitchen supplies and a Japanese mythological being, the kappa. The latter is best described as a bipedal turtle-like creature known for causing mischief in and around waterways and for having a taste for cucumbers. But what does any of this have to do with Kappabashi?
There are two theories regarding the origins of this niche part of Tokyo, both explained by a sign that stands in the area. The first is that around 160 years ago, the area was prone to flooding. Tired of this, a local man, Kappaya Kihachi, took it upon himself to carry out drainage works, but the project struggled — something noticed by some nearby kappa, with whom he was apparently on good terms and who helped him complete construction.
The second story says that samurai and foot soldiers would hang raincoats (kappa) out to dry by a bridge (bashi) in the area. So the name translates to either raincoat bridge or mythical-water-dwelling-creature bridge. Whichever one you decide sounds closer to the truth, there are plenty of interesting ways to spend an afternoon here.
Kitchen Connoisseurs
Kappabashi as a neighborhood is centered mostly on a single street, commonly known as Kappabashi Kitchen Street. Depending on which end you arrive at, locating this street is as easy as looking out for an enormous bust of a mustached chef rising from the roof of a building. You’ll also know you’re in the right place when every shop is selling either kitchen knives or tableware. Or when you begin noticing images and statues of your friendly neighborhood kappa in shopfronts and on overhead signage.
Known for their exceptional sharpness, Japanese kitchen knives have made a name for themselves globally in recent years. Inbound tourists from around the world can be found all along Kappabashi Kitchen Street looking for blades to add to their collections, with some stores even offering engraving services that allow each knife to be personalized with the owner’s name.
On Kitchen Street, you’ll find wares crafted in modest, earthy tones alongside items with vibrant, hand-painted designs. The selection feels endless: everything from plates and bowls right down to chopstick holders. There are also a number of specialty chopsticks stores, such as Hashitou, where customers can test drive (without food, sadly) different styles, lengths and materials to find a pair perfectly suited to their hand.
Make Food, Eat Food
Replica food, which is often found on display outside restaurants and cafés as a means of physically displaying the menu, is a big business in Japan. Some of Tokyo’s best fake food can be found right in the heart of Kappabashi at Tokyo Biken and Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya. Both of these stores sell a variety of plastic Japanese dishes, both full-size and in a more practical, keychain variety.
At Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya, customers can also book a replica food workshop to make their own non-edible confection. This workshop, which goes for 40 minutes and costs ¥3,000 per person, allows participants to make two tempura items and one piece of lettuce using traditional wax methods. Reservations are necessary to participate and can be made online via the Ganso Shokuhin Sample-ya website.
If you’re looking for food you can actually eat, most options are found on the side streets that branch off of Kappabashi Kitchen Street. Notable mentions include Shochiku-en Cafe, a vegan and gluten-free eatery with a delicious menu including Margherita pizza, a yakitori burger and tiramisu, and Coffee Cisz, a small kissaten with a large record collection perfect for a caffeine hit paired with a retro vibe.
Local Mythology
Today, Kappabashi very much owns its contemporary kitchenware identity. But this modern image doesn’t mean the area has lost touch with its roots. Those with a keen eye will spot cute (and some not-so-cute) kappa characters all over, many of them designed to dress up shopfronts and windows. There’s even a human-sized gold one midway along Kitchen Street.
But it’s in the backstreets at Sogenji Temple that you’ll find perhaps the most intriguing kappa artifacts. At the base of this small temple are a number of concrete kappa statues, which are often left with offerings of One Cup sake and their favorite snack of cucumbers. But what’s most interesting is found at the top of the stairs inside the hall. If you look closely through the glass on the left-hand side, you might notice the mummified hand of a kappa, neatly displayed in its own little case. As for whether it’s the genuine article or not, we’ll leave that up to you to decide.
Getting to Kappabashi from Shibuya Station is as simple as catching the Ginza Line through to Tawaramachi Station; the trip takes a little over half an hour. If you’re in Asakusa around hot spots such as Senso-ji Temple, Kappabashi Kitchen Street is well within walking distance.
