One of the best things about visiting or living in Tokyo is the colorful constellation of daytrip destinations surrounding the city. Among them, few places rival the charm of Chichibu — a region beloved by locals for its seasonal beauty, nostalgic atmosphere and spiritual significance. Situated at the mountainous heart of Saitama Prefecture, this historic city is just over an hour away from Ikebukuro Station via the sleek Laview limited express train.
Chichibu has a wealth of treasures waiting to be discovered. Even a day trip will leave you feeling as though you’ve catapulted through centuries of history, following timeworn pilgrimage routes and marveling at charming retro diners that feel frozen in time. Read on to learn more about the best of Chichibu, and how to easily access the area.
Stroll Back in Time on Banba Street
At the heart of Chichibu is Banba Street, home to a nostalgic collection of Taisho-era architectural gems straight out of a black-and-white film. We walked down the charming cobblestone paths to explore several famed historic eateries, housed in meticulously preserved Japanese-Western buildings of the early 1900s.
Pari Shokudo
Pari Shokudo (est. 1927), which translates to “Pari Restaurant,” is a dream come true for lovers of retro aesthetics and food. Decorated with old posters and an eclectic array of knickknacks, the space takes visitors back to a simpler time. The restaurant, run by third generation owner Yoshitomo Kawabe, is a registered tangible cultural property of Japan, which speaks to its indispensability as a living capsule of Showa period history. I savored the best omurice of my life here, paired perfectly with a sparkling melon soda float.
The building’s exterior is a sight to behold in itself; it’s a rare remnant of kanban kenchiku (signboard architecture), Art Deco-inspired three-story buildings from the early 20th century with distinctive, decorative facades. Pari Shokudo, with its mottled gray walls and faded gold lettering, fittingly occupies the cover of a book by Masakazu Hagino on the art form: Signboard Architecture: Showa Era Shops and Lifestyles.
Highlander Inn Chichibu
A hop and a skip away from Pari Shokudo is Highlander Inn Chichibu, a pub that blends Scottish culture with Japanese hospitality. We spoke with managing director Kotaro Iwasaki, who introduced us to Chichibu’s incredible whisky, served alongside pub food. “I’m originally from Chiba, and bartended for a long time in Tokyo,” he told us. “But when I got the opportunity to mold an abandoned traditional building into a lively hub of cultural fusion, I jumped at the chance.”
Highlander’s delicious menu, which includes Scottish pub classics like haggis, cottage pie and fish and chips, complements its unique drink menu, which includes Japanese, Irish and Scottish beer on tap, Chichibu malt and grain whisky, honey wine and cocktails. Our favorites were the Ichiro’s Malt Whisky trio — matured, vatted and bottled in Chichibu — and the fragrant Mead Chichibu Hyakka, sweet wine made from Chichibu wildflower honey.
Parlor Koizumi
For coffee lovers visiting Japan, experiencing kissaten culture is a must. Translating to “tea-drinking shops,” kissaten are cozy, atmospheric coffee shops that emerged as a facet of Japan’s post-war Western influence. Parlor Koizumi, run by a family of four, is one of the best in the genre, effortlessly encapsulating the warm palette and optimistic spirit of the mid-Showa era. We devoured the shop’s famous fruit parfaits and warm coffee, all while basking in the space’s effortlessly calming ambience and homey decor.
Saiko-ji (Fudasho No. 16)
Embark on the Chichibu Kannon Pilgrimage
For hundreds of years, worshippers have walked the routes of the Kannon pilgrimage to strengthen their connection to the Kannon, a Buddhist deity of mercy and compassion. The Japan 100 Kannon refers to three distinct circuits of temples: the Saikoku pilgrimage of the west, Bando pilgrimage of the east and the Chichibu pilgrimage of Saitama.
“The Chichibu pilgrimage is special because it includes 34 temples, unlike the other two, which have 33,” Tetsuhiro Aratani, the chief priest of Hosho-ji Temple (No. 32), explained. “In the early 13th century, it consisted of 33 temples, which symbolizes Kannon-sama’s 33 different forms, but one more temple was added in the 16th century to create the Japan 100.” Stretching across about 100 km, the Chichibu route is also the shortest of the three, making it relatively accessible.
Fudasho: Sites of Buddhist Spirituality
Temples of the Chichibu pilgrimage are called fudasho, a name that descends from the old practice of pilgrims nailing wooden nameplates (fuda) at the temples to mark their visit. On our tour with Aratani, we visited three fudasho.
Jigen-ji (No. 13) houses a statue of Yakushi Nyorai, which is said to help improve visitors’ eye health. During the Ame-yakushi Festival on July 8, the temple displays wooden plaques inscribed with the character “eye,” and sells black sesame seed “bukkaki” candy for eye health.
Imamiya-bo (No. 14), which enshrines a rare 1300-year old half-lotus seated statue of a heavenly being, has an interesting history. It used to share grounds with Imamiya Shrine, but the two were severed during the Meiji era due to a governmental decree separating Shintoism and Buddhism.
Saiko-ji (No. 16) contains the oldest relic of the Chichibu pilgrimage — its fudado, or votive plaque hall, originates in the year 1234. It possesses a rare tranquility, with a beautiful willow tree at its center. Here, you can stand atop sand and gravel from the sacred Shikoku pilgrimage route, and walk through a corridor that houses uniquely striking sculptural copies of all the temples’ principal images.
Chichibu Shrine: The Heart of Shinto
Interestingly, Chichibu is also home to a famous Shinto shrine that’s believed to have over 2000 years of history. Chichibu Shrine is most well known as the site of the Chichibu Night Festival, which takes place every December, but it is a beautiful and peaceful place to visit at any time of the year. Make sure to try mizu-ura mikuji here — a fortune-telling slip that only reveals its text when dipped in water.
During our visit, we were struck by the vividness and intricacy of the main hall’s animal carvings, which were apparently repainted not long ago. Look out for the three monkey carving, which reverses the traditional depiction of the Three Wise Monkeys — often associated with the proverb “see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil” — by instead embodying the phrase “see well, listen well, and speak well.”
A Sea of Pink Moss Phlox at Hitsujiyama Park
Because of its proximity to central Tokyo and abundance of breathtaking scenery, Chichibu makes for an ideal short getaway from the city. The best part is that Chichibu’s natural vistas are not limited by season: The winter brings enchanting icicles, and fall comes with jaw-dropping foliage.
On our trip, we were lucky enough to catch Hitsujiyama Park’s stunning hillside of shibazakura at its peak. Each year from mid April to early May, some 400,000 pink moss phlox blooms flourish in the area, forming an otherworldly floral haze as far as the eye can see. Framed by a cascading sea of pink and purple, the majestic Mount Buko rises in the distance, creating a truly memorable sight. In early April, the park boasts a dazzling variety of cherry blossom trees.
Hot Spring Relaxation at Matsuri no Yu
While Japan’s hot springs are world-famous, not all onsens are easily accessible. What makes Chichibu unique among hot spring destinations is its unparalleled reachability. Matsuri no Yu is attached right next to the ornate Seibu-Chichibu Station, so you can enjoy a soak immediately upon arrival or at the end of your trip.
The name “Matsuri no Yu,” meaning “festival bath,” pays homage to Chichibu’s rich festival culture. With four types of open-air baths, a large food court serving local cuisine and a lovely souvenir section, the facility is a must-visit.
How to Access Chichibu
To get to Chichibu from central Tokyo, take the Laview limited express train from Ikebukuro Station. With gorgeous velveteen yellow seats, wide windows for optimal views, clean bathrooms and Wi-Fi and outlets, the thoughtfully designed vehicle — made by world-renowned architect Kazuyo Sejima — ensures a relaxing trip.
English speakers can book tickets in advance here, or purchase them at Seibu Tourist Information Center in Ikebukuro. (Operating hours: 8:00 a.m.–3:00 p.m.) Customer service is available in Japanese, English, Korean and Chinese.
The Seibu 1-Day Pass — exclusively available to foreign nationals — is the most convenient way to travel to Chichibu from Tokyo. You can purchase the pass on the day of travel at the Seibu Tourist Information Center (TIC), or buy it in advance through Klook, which will provide you with a convenient QR code ticket. For more information, click here.
If you are hoping to visit multiple sites west of Tokyo during your trip, the Seibu 1 Day Pass is also highly recommended. It gives you access to limitless rides on the Seibu Railway Lines for the day (excluding the Tamagawa Line).
Other than the sites introduced above, you can visit the famous Nagatoro River for a scenic boat ride, the historic town of Kawagoe, Moominvalley Park in Hanno and much more. Book online on Klook, or purchase at Seibu Tourist Information Center. (Moominvalley Park passes are only available on Klook.)
