They say that scent is one of the most powerful sensory triggers for long-term memories, whether positive or negative. The smell of sunscreen can immediately transport you to a happy beach day, and Dior Sauvage (your ex-situationship’s favorite cologne) can immediately send you into fight or flight mode. It’s one of the reasons why fragrance has always been a popular souvenir; what better way to preserve your vacation whimsy for years to come?
Fragrance enthusiasts visiting Japan should, of course, pay attention to the country’s rich array of perfume brands, which we’ve covered in-depth here, as well as custom scent-making experiences in neighborhoods like Asakusa and Nakameguro. While you’re here, though, it’s also worth sampling Japan-inspired perfumes by Western houses. Paying homage to the country’s rich fragrance tradition, these brands blend notes like incense, matcha and citrus to craft fragrances that feel storied yet modern.
Here are five Japan-exclusive perfumes to take note of, including Byredo’s highly-anticipated new addition Oboro.
Le Labo: Gaiac 10 (Tokyo Exclusive)
If there is one scent you must at least sample while you’re visiting Tokyo, it’s Le Labo’s beloved Tokyo city exclusive — Gaiac 10. This cult favorite scent is somehow minimalist and clean, yet smoky and mysterious, which makes it the perfect signature scent.
As you might guess from its name, Gaiac 10 revolves around gaiac wood. According to Le Labo, “gaiac is a very hard, greenish wood that isn’t as dry as cedar, but is as subtle, profound and stable.” Rounding out the bouquet are cedar, olibanum and four kinds of musk notes which gives the perfume its smoky, incense-like quality.
One thing to note is that the fragrance does not have the best projection or longevity, like many of Le Labo’s city exclusives. But it’s a great choice for those who want a subtle-yet-distinct scent bubble. Gaiac 10 is best worn in the autumn, but can work year-round.
You can of course access Le Labo’s city-exclusive scents anywhere around the world each September, but they do make for great souvenirs (and you get to say you “got it in Japan” when someone asks what perfume you’re wearing).
Le Labo: Osmanthus 19
Outside of the United States, where Le Labo originates, it’s rare that a country has multiple city exclusives. Osmanthus 19 made headlines last year when it was announced, becoming the face of the famed Le Labo Kyoto Machiya concept boutique.
Like Gaiac 10, Osmanthus 19 has a woody, resinous quality with incense notes, clearly inspired by the city’s historic temples and townhouses. But it also offers a floral center: the osmanthus flower, which smells vaguely like an apricot and pairs well with woody notes. You also get a hint of lavender in the opening.
Osmanthus 19 is maybe not as iconic or unique as Gaiac 10, but it’s still a solid city exclusive worth trying out while you’re in Kyoto. Be warned, though, that the concept store tends to get very crowded and you may have to pick up your perfume later in the day — avoid it if you’re in a rush.
Byredo: Oboro
Announced last week as Byredo’s first Japan exclusive fragrance, Oboro is inspired by the same Japanese word which means “hazy” or “misty.” It’s most often used to describe a spring moon shrouded by a veil of clouds, called “oborozuki.”
Fittingly, the fragrance is a delicate combination of bergamot, ginger and black pepper as the top notes; violet leaf, peony and mineral as the middle notes; salt, amber, vetiver and incense as its base. It’s herbal, summery and fresh, yet dries down to an earthier, skin scent that feels quite wearable.
The nose behind the fragrance is Jérôme Epinette, who crafted some of the house’s bestsellers like Bal d’Afrique, Gypsy Water Absolu and La Tulipe. For the campaign, Byredo has tapped Gozo Yoshimasu, a renowned poet and visual artist known for his spellbinding readings, complex visual poetry and multidisciplinary works.
Whether the scent will be distinct enough to join the lineup of Byredo’s iconic fragrances (e.g. Mojave Ghost, Bibliothèque) remains to be seen, but Oboro is certainly an intriguing foray into country-exclusive perfumes for the brand.
Fugazzi: Matchabuya
If you regularly consume perfume-related content, you’ve probably heard of the brand Fugazzi, best known for its crowd pleasers like Angel Dust, Vanilla Haze and Orange Crush. Matchabuya is one of the Amsterdam-based brand’s few country-specific perfumes, and is obviously inspired by matcha.
Topped off by notes of bergamot, matcha and lemongrass and balanced by notes of Hinoki, musk, cedar and seaweed, it’s a fresh, warmer weather-leaning scent. It’s less of a strict tea scent and more of an aquatic, citrusy one, but is perfectly wearable — and not too herbal.
Some might compare it to Le Labo’s Thé Matcha 26, but I would say it lacks the signature scent appeal of Thé Matcha — neutral yet distinct, sharp but soft. Fugazzi’s matcha interpretation feels more seasonal.
Although the scent is available at the Amsterdam flagship store and is sometimes available online across the US and EU, you probably have a better shot of finding it in the Shibuya flagship or at Nose Shop locations.
D’Orsay: Sweet Disruption
Originally launched as a Japan boutique exclusive, D’Orsay’s Sweet Disruption is now available internationally. But I would still recommend visiting a D’Orsay boutique while in Tokyo, for the beautiful interior and stellar service.
Based in Paris, the perfume house has been around for over a century. Its name is derived from Count d’Orsay, a 19th century dandy known for his artistic spirit, fashion sense and scandalous romances.
Like many others on this list, Sweet Disruption pays homage to Japan through notes like incense, vetiver and citrus (mandarin orange and lemon). The fragrance has quite a refreshing, sharp opening thanks to its top notes of mint and pink pepper. Its center is floral: geranium and Egyptian jasmine.
Jean-Christophe Hérault, who was also behind Kenzo’s Poudre Matcha, elaborates on his vision for the perfume here if you’re interested. It’s a refreshing and well-balanced play on citrus, and the incense notes are not too heavy-handed, making it a safe option for all seasons.
