Located on the eastern coast of Japan’s Izu Peninsula, Higashiizu is a quaint onsen town that seems magically untouched by time. It’s a place where steamy hot springs meet dramatic ocean views and mountain landscapes, where quiet lantern-lit paths wind through a town brimming with romantic nostalgia.
It’s also just a 2-hour train ride from central Tokyo, making for a perfect day trip or overnight visit. It’s well worth the trip — Higashiizu is full of deep tradition and otherworldly beauty. It’s a perfect destination for a traveler looking for quintessential Japanese nature alongside traditional inns and restaurants.
Onsen and Ryokan in Higashiizu: A Steamy, Soothing Retreat
Arriving at Izu-Atagawa Station, one of the first things every visitor will notice is clouds of steam wafting from several picturesque drilling towers scattered throughout town; these were historically used to access hot water deep underground.
Higashiizu is famous for its seaside hot springs, including Atagawa Onsen, Inatori Onsen and Hokkawa Onsen, all of which offer some of the most atmospheric open-air bathing experiences in the country. The town also boasts plenty of ryokan (traditional inns) with their own outdoor baths, letting you soak while gazing at the silhouettes of fishing boats bobbing offshore.
At night, the Atagawa Onsen area transforms into something straight out of a Studio Ghibli movie. Its streets are lit up with the enchanting red glow of paper lanterns: hanging in rows outside local izakaya, fluttering at the entrance of shrines and twinkling across the town’s many red bridges. Paired with the curls of steam and the sounds of crashing waves, they create an intoxicating and ethereal atmosphere.
Hosono Plateau: Stunning Landscapes by the Sea
An entirely different vista awaits at the Inatori Hosono Plateau, a sprawling, 125-hectare field covered in Japanese pampas grass. It’s set right alongside the ocean, making for a tableau that can’t be seen anywhere else. Gazing out from its heights, visitors can see Sagami Bay and the Izu Islands.
The landscape at the plateau changes dramatically throughout the year. In spring, wild vegetable-picking is popular, and its grasslands are verdant under a bright blue sky in the summer. In fall, the pampas grass turns golden brown, drenching the plateau in beautiful sepia tones.
Experience Higashiizu by Bike: Coastal Roads, Shrines and Local Crafts
Higashiizu’s coastal roads are ideal for cycling and present a lovely way to get to know the region. Renting a bike or e-bike allows visitors to wind through the countryside, pausing in tiny fishing villages at their own pace.
Take a break mid-ride at the ashiyu (hot spring foot bath) stations scattered throughout the town. These free public foot baths let you soak your tired feet in geothermally heated water while gazing at the sea or chatting with locals.
There are also several mesmerizing shrines and temples in Higashiizu, including Susanoo Shrine, which offers a beautiful view of the sea from a hilltop. Saikou Temple, also known as Kaya no Temple, has an ancient tree that’s said to be over 750 years old and several other power spots spread throughout the grounds.
Cyclists can also visit Inatori Culture Park to see a permanent exhibit dedicated to the town’s renowned tradition of hina dolls, strung together and hung from the ceiling to bring in good luck. The impressive array of dolls on display gives beautiful insight into the quiet pride and artistry of the region.
Try Local Delicacies: Delicious Seafood, Mikan and Meat Fried Rice
While Higashiizu is best known for its seafood, one of the most beloved local dishes might surprise you: niku chahan, or meat-fried rice, often served in casual, family-run diners. Tender pork or beef slices are stir-fried with garlic and soy sauce and topped over fluffy rice with scallions and fried egg.
Higashiizu is also famous for its mikan, or mandarin oranges. From fall to late spring, mikan-picking is offered at Futatsubori Farm, where families can enjoy freshly picked mikan straight from the tree or by hand-pressed into delicious juice.
Of course, the ocean’s bounty features prominently in the town’s cuisine as well. The undisputed king of Higashiizu delicacies is kinmedai (golden eye snapper), typically served simmered in a sweet, soy-based sauce, or as fresh, melt-in-your-mouth sashimi.
The town of Higashiizu remains relatively unknown, but has a richness in culture and landscape that begs to be visited time and time again. With just a quick trip from Tokyo, you can refresh and revitalize your senses with all the beauty and comfort Higashiizu has to offer.
More Information
Find out more about Higashiizu at their official website.
