This article appeared in Tokyo Weekender Vol. 2, 2025.
To read the entire issue, click here.
Almost 1,200 years ago, one of the most famous Japanese monks, Kukai, entered his eternal meditation on the eastern peak of Mount Koya. The monk, known posthumously as Kobo Daishi, slipped into death mid-prayer.
Shingon belief states that though his physical body perished, his spirit still remains on Mount Koya, awaiting Miroku Nyorai, Buddha of the Future, and watching over one of Japan’s holiest mountains. To this day, two shojin ryori (traditional Buddhist vegetarian cuisine) meals are brought to Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum every day to sustain the monk’s spirit.
In the late summer of 2023, along with my mother and grandmother, I visited Mount Koya — or Koyasan in Japanese, which is how I prefer to refer to it. My grandmother had walked the Shikoku pilgrimage, a route connecting 88 temples said to have been visited by Kobo Daishi in the ninth century. Although not officially part of the circuit, Koyasan is considered its spiritual beginning and end, as it’s the revered monk’s final resting place. She wanted to complete the journey while her legs were still strong enough to make the trek.
Holy Pilgrimage
Koyasan refers to a mountain basin and its surrounding peaks, as well as the temple complex that spans the area. Found in Kansai’s Wakayama Prefecture, it’s a tremendously important site in Japanese Buddhism. The birthplace and spiritual center of Shingon Buddhism, the mountainous area was home to over 2,000 temples in the Edo period, 117 of which remain.
These 117 temples are still open to visitors today. It’s possible to take a cable car or bus to the top, but the spiritually or athletically inclined can ascend to the peak using ancient pilgrimage trails. Among these is Choishi Michi, the original main trail, a 23.5-kilometer hike that winds through the forest.
“After climbing a steep mountain path, a religious city suddenly appears, lined with temples and monastic lodgings. The air is clear, and a solemn atmosphere filled with tradition surrounds you,” Nobuhiro Tamura, the former chief administrator of a temple on Koyasan and current head operator of a Koyasan tour company, explains. “It is a place where you can get a glimpse into the original landscape of Japan, where many people with deep faith in Kobo Daishi still live.”
It might have simply been the temperature drop and the misty weather, but Koyasan’s ambience left me feeling chilled and mystified on my journey there. Visitors enter the complex through Daimon, a 25-meter-tall gate flanked by guardian statues, marking the symbolic threshold between the secular world and the sacred mountain temple town. As we passed through, our guide pointed out the route that would lead to Fudozaka-guchi Nyonin-do, the only surviving women’s hall of the seven that once stood on the perimeter of the temple complex. Women weren’t allowed to enter the holy grounds until 1872, and even then, they faced strict restrictions and resistance. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that they received full and equal access.
Instead, female pilgrims would hike the perimeter of Koyasan and go to surrounding sanctuaries with direct ties to Kobo Daishi in order to experience a fraction of the area’s holy energy. The difficult and even dangerous route became known as Nyonin Michi, now a symbol of devout, resilient female worship.
I looked to my grandmother and mother, the three of us comprising three generations of women, casually visiting a mountain we would have once been barred from. I suddenly felt a rush of pride and appreciation. I stood a little taller and tilted my head up, beckoning the energy around me.
Kobo Daishi’s Resting Place
Some of Koyasan’s main highlights include the Danjo Garan, the central temple complex; the Tokugawa mausoleum enshrining Ieyasu and his son Hidetada; and, of course, Okunoin, the site of the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi and the largest cemetery in Japan. The cemetery is home to over 200,000 tombstones, including a rocket-shaped tombstone modeled after Apollo 11 and a Yakult-shaped tombstone.
To enter the site of Kobo Daishi’s mausoleum, visitors must cross Gobyobashi Bridge, beyond which food and photography are not allowed and talking must be kept to a minimum. The tour guide asked us to bow to Kobo Daishi and meditatively cross the bridge, one wooden plank at a time. My gaze zeroed in on the planks as if one misstep would reveal me to be careless or disrespectful.
On the other side of the bridge awaits Torodo Hall, a sanctuary illuminated by 20,000 lanterns. Guests aren’t permitted to enter the mausoleum itself, but may instead pay respect from outside of the monk’s eternal meditative place. As soon as I crossed the bridge, a whole-body shudder coursed through me. I held my breath instinctively and felt an all-encompassing presence around me, understanding me, protecting me. I looked over to my mother, and she returned a quick, wide-eyed nod. “Iru ne,” she said. He’s here.
Temple Lodgings at Koysasan
For those looking to deepen their spiritual experience even further, Koyasan also presents guests with the opportunity to stay at a temple lodging, called shukubo. “There are around 50 shukubo, and many of them can be booked easily online,” Tamura notes. For visitors coming between March and November, he advises booking far in advance. “On the other hand, if you prefer a quieter experience, winter is a peaceful season with crisp, clear air — just make sure to come prepared for the cold.”
Staying at a temple makes for a wholly new level of immersion in the culture of Koyasan. Shukubo experiences offer spiritual understanding through lived experience and actual religious practice, allowing guests to eat, pray and sleep like a monk on temple grounds.
A shukubo experience provides the chance to slow down and find profound meaning in quiet, everyday moments: walking through the temple’s impeccably polished wooden corridors, trying thoughtfully prepared shojin ryori meals, engaging in rituals such as gongyo (daily sutra chanting) and goma (a fire ritual prayer) and admiring carefully maintained gardens. Staying at a shukubo also allows guests to explore Koyasan at night; the red temple buildings of Danjo Garan have a completely different ambience when illuminated in the evening.
There’s something to be said for experiencing the entire 24-hour cycle in Koyasan, watching the sun dip in the evening and welcoming the sunrise the next day, practicing gratitude and reflection for the things we take for granted, guided by the spirit of Kobo Daishi.
More Info
Book your own trip to Koyasan here.
