Run by the most adorable old couple, Jouetsu-sen is located in a residential neighborhood that’s just a 10-minute walk from Koenji Station. Somewhat of a local secret, it is crammed with flowers and greenery, tended to daily by its elderly owners.

The datsuijo changing area contains a number of increasingly rare period items, like the old-style massage chairs which look a little like torture chairs, and an old hair dryer-cum-perm machine. There are a couple of jet baths, a cold water bath and an outside milk bath, tiled in a true Showa style. Jouetsu-sen is rather small, so we advise visiting solo or in pairs.