Amazon Tokyo Fashion Week AW17 kicked off in late March, delivering a fresh slice of homegrown talent. Here’s our illustrated roundup of key looks and trends spotted on the catwalks.
Although Tokyo Fashion Week is not known for attracting the biggest fashion names, what it does do is present innovative yet wearable clothes from plenty of mid-range (read: more affordable) designers. This season we saw recurring elements of late 70s and early 80s influences, boxy cuts, wide-leg pants, collared jackets, and flowing fabrics.
Mix-and-match textures and layered looks were a running theme with a seasonal palette of purples, rich reds, greys and pinks alongside bold patterns, monochrome checks and splashes of luxe glitter. We picked six of our favorite designers, and illustrated the key looks from each range to help you plan your fall 2017 wardrobe.
Born in 1991, Keisuke Yoshida is one of Fashion Week’s youngest designers. This season, he continued to demonstrate his youthful energy with retro pop colors like fire truck red and flamingo pink – but he kept them modern rather than kitsch with slouchy cuts and fragmented uniforms broken up with belts and fastenings. Displaced zippers and pockets adorned the uniquely tailored pieces, including oversized jackets, tunic dresses and split leg flares. Tartan and houndstooth pieces clashed with utilitarian pleats, all topped off with playful hints of leisurewear.
The popular mid-range brand emphasized its reputation for functional, desirable fashion in an impressive 80s city slicker power trip. Wine hues, neutral tones, striking checkerboard and hot red pieces were shown in layers of co-ordinates that could be easily woven in new combinations for both men and women. Fashion staples like bomber jackets and roll necks were presented in the season’s must-have mauve. Flapping coat tails on three-quarter length coats and jackets, fur and wool stoles cinched with leather belts, and an array of casual formalwear will make stylish additions to any wardrobe.
The fashion legend who made a name for herself in Paris in the 80s is known around the world for her penchant for contrast and bold use of shapes and colors. This collection was no exception with gorgeous patterned knit dresses conveying a simultaneous sophistication and sense of fun. Busy black and white patterns made a striking impact amongst the relaxed silhouettes and softer curves. The gray and black garments were draped with overlaid textures, giving warmth with an edge, refined style, and mysterious charm – the perfect spell for glam winter witches.
A singer and DJ turned designer might face tough critics, but an established fashion icon like Yulia had a strong vision when launching her brand last year. Inspired by underground culture, Growing Pains bridges a gap between streetwear and high fashion, opening the door in both directions. The AW17 collection saw urban military chic clash with feminine elegance and bondage punk. Ruffles, seatbelt fastenings, bows, and straps were all used to embellish khaki green garments and nurse’s uniforms – as if Florence Nightingale had parachuted right into a fetish party.
Design duo Ena Kizawa and Taketo Nishino presented an autumnal dream in rich muted tones. The easily wearable array of garments mixed up a multitude of tactile fabrics, from delicate lace and silks to velvet and heavy wools. Tulle skirts were worn over low slung pants, paired with modestly embellished knits. Vintage elements appeared in the chintzy floral motifs as well as the 70s full skirts and blouson sleeves. Tiered cuffs, frills, bows and swinging tassels all added a final touch of softness to an alluringly comfortable collection.
Yukimi Kawashima’s 20 years of experience in the industry is apparent in her exquisite tailoring. She presented variations on the trouser suit, from cropped Teddy Boy rocker jackets with drainpipe slacks to billowing zoot suits. Masculine elements were tweaked to flatter the female form, referencing 80s power dressing statements rather than venturing into recent androgynous trends. Delicate velvet gowns and secretary ensembles were spattered with ruffles and jagged lace, completed with harnesses and buckles in a juxtaposition of contrasting stereotypes of femininity for the modern woman.
Illustrations by Bunny Bissoux
This article appears in the April 2017 issue of Tokyo Weekender magazine.