by Kelly Wetherille
The ninth Japan Fashion Week, showcasing the spring/summer 2010 collections from 51 different brands, wrapped up on Saturday, October 24. The collections ranged from the conservative to the avant-garde, and included just about everything in between. The week also included several other special events to keep guests busy, including a model search contest, exhibitions, workshops and parties. Read on for summaries of some of the week’s standouts…
Motonari Ono, always popular with fans, once again went for a sexy, chic look of feminine details paired with menswear-inspired tailoring. Tuxedo jackets and military-inspired coats were softened by lace insets and lapels, and then paired with miniskirts and thigh-high stockings for a seductive look.
Toshikazu Iwaya gained fame when he launched the popular brand Dresscamp, and for Dress33 he showed a colorful collection of men’s and women’s wear that included metallic dresses, giant belt buckles, and sports influences, such as running tights by Asics. Accented by a spattering of gold studs and fabrics with interesting textures, then topped off with funky accessories such as cellophane hair bows and feather earrings, the show was pure entertainment.
Hideaki Sakaguchi showed muted tones of grey, beige, lavender and tan for his spring/summer collection for The Dress & Co. Light, thin fabrics were draped and layered to create voluminous shapes, then matched with more fitted jackets and vests in corduroy, cotton and leather. Printed t-shirts with frayed hems brought all of the lace and ruffles down to earth.
Theatre Products mixed modern shapes with colonial influences as designers Akira Takeuchi and Takuya Nakanishi injected an uncharacteristically colorless collection with their signature wit. Models wore straw hats and carried parasols as they walked the runway in ruffled dresses, tweed jackets, lace tights, and long skirts.
G.V.G.V.’s designer, who goes by the name Mug, showed eighties-inspired looks with a distinct rock vibe. Models strutted their stuff in studded leather jackets and tops, fringed leggings, deconstructed knits, bustier tops, and sheer blouses as old-school hip-hop pounded through the hall and no less than 42 disco balls glittered above them.
Naomi Yamamoto of Tiny Dinosaur debuted a relaxed yet stylish collection of silk and jersey dresses, chiffon tops and cotton trench coats with Japanese influences. Many of the prints have a kimono look to them, and several pieces crossed in the front and tied like yukatas. But these were mixed with skinny jeans and short shorts to keep the looks modern and wearable.
Designers Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi of Matohu are known for producing beautiful clothes in high-quality fabrics, and they didn’t disappoint this season. Their straight skirts, wrap coats, cropped boleros and relaxed tank tops had an easy, carefree vibe, yet as usual, the fabrics set them apart from the rest. Geometric patterns were intricately woven into cottons, crochet pieces were dip-dyed for a gradated effect, and striped silks were paired with fine, open knits.
Ato has been in the press recently after Kanye West was spotted wearing a pair of the brand’s sneakers, so the show was considered one of the ones to watch during Japan Fashion Week. Ato Matsumoto sent models down the runway in color blocked leather pants, jackets and vests, sheer tops, and jersey pieces with cutout details.