The arrival of fall and back to school season means it’s finally time to pull out your favorite pair of jeans. This year has seen more denim discourse than most, from Sydney Sweeney’s “my jeans are blue” debacle to girl group Katseye’s meticulously choreographed Gap ad. Although denim is typically associated with classic Americana, if you know, you know that it’s also considered an iconic facet of Japanese fashion. Japanese denim is coveted for its heavyweight durability, beautiful indigo hue and its long history of slow craftsmanship.
Read on for a list of some iconic brands to check out during your visit. Many of these labels ship overseas, but nothing compares to the experience of picking out your favorite fit and style in person.
Momotaro is a Japanese denim brand named after the hero of a famous Japanese folktale who was born from a peach. Made from Zimbabwean cotton in Kojima, Okayama, the brand nods to its roots with a peach logo and a signature pink selvedge line. Momotaro offers a variety of labels — Copper, Vintage, Battle and Gold — to suit different tastes and budgets while maintaining its high-quality construction and classic style.
First established in 1997 by Toru Nogami, Samurai Jeans is renowned for its top-tier heavyweight denim. The brand earned a cult following through its introduction of modern cuts and unique details, from symbolic Japanese motifs to vibrant, expressive fades. Samurai Jeans is based in Umeda, Osaka, and cultivates its own cotton in Hyogo prefecture, where Nogami first started the business in a tiny apartment.
Arguably one of the most popular and recognizable Japanese denim brands, Evisu was founded by Hidehiko Yamane in 1991 and named after Ebisu, the Japanese god of prosperity. Many consider Evisu to be the first Japanese denim brand to conquer the foreign market; the brand’s trademark painted “gulls” were seen all over London’s cultural scene in the mid-90s and American streetwear in the early 2000s, endorsed by the likes of David Beckham and Jay Z. Evisu is one of the “Osaka 5,” the five brands that contributed enormously to the rise of Japanese denim throughout the 80s and 90s. The other four are Studio D’Artisan, Denime, Full Count and Warehouse.
Fullcount, founded in Osaka in 1993, is a Japanese denim brand celebrated for its high-quality fabric. Founder Mikiharu Tsujita, who bonded Evisu founder Hidehiko Yamane over vintage Levi’s 501s, was deeply inspired by American workwear of the 40s and 50s. The brand was the first among Japanese labels to use Zimbabwean extra-long staple cotton, woven on vintage power looms in Okayama, to properly recreate the look and feel of authentic vintage jeans. This commitment to traditional methods and a long-standing partnership with a dedicated factory has cemented Fullcount’s reputation as a leader in the global denim scene.
Another one of the esteemed “Osaka 5” denim brands, Warehouse & Co. was founded in 1995 by twin brothers Kenichi and Koji Shiotani. The brothers are known for their dedication to authenticity, going so far as to deconstruct vintage denim banners to study the yarn and weave. Warehouse’s signature Lot. Warehouse’s iconic 1001xx jeans, inspired by the 1950s Levi’s 501XX, embody this ethos with period-correct details and construction.
You may have come across Betty Smith’s custom jeans on social media — the Ebisu branch is known for its “jeans making experience,” which allows you to customize your favorite cut with embellishments and patches. Betty Smith is Japan’s first manufacturer of women’s jeans, founded in 1962 in the Kojima district of Kurashiki, Okayama, which is famously “the birthplace of Japanese denim.” Learn all about the brand here.
Originally created for the Japanese-American motorcycle community in 2002 by Shinichi Haraki, Iron Heart prioritizes durability, known for its heavyweight fabrics. Haraki, who had a prolific career in the denim industry at Edwin, aimed to create the perfect “biker silhouette,” which would hold its shape firmly while still being flexible. With a loyal global following, Iron Heart is perhaps most well-known for its signature 21 oz. 634S, a model designed to be treasured for a lifetime.
Founded in 1997 by Kenichi Iwaya in Kurashiki, Okayama, Pure Blue Japan (also known as PBJ) carved out its own niche by developing incredibly textured fabrics through a low-tension weaving process. The brand’s deep affinity for indigo is evident in the indigo leaf embroidery on its jeans’ back pockets and the blue selvedge line. Some of its most popular silhouettes include the XX-019 and XX-013.
