by Kelly Wetherille
Weekender’s last issue (out April 2) recapped the first two days of the autumn/winter 2010 Japan Fashion Week, which ran from March 23 to 26. Read on for highlights of the last two days…
Designers Hiroyuki Horihata and Makiko Sekiguchi showed a collection of wrap dresses, long coats, loose fitting trousers and voluminous skirts in a plethora of colors, patterns and textures. Lots of layering and unexpected yet pleasing color combinations (think lemon yellow with deep berry) added interest to their beautiful silhouettes that were at once flattering and comfortable-looking. The show ended with an ombre dyed silk jacquard shift dress the “colors of a winter morning,” according to Horihata.
Kamishima Chinami sent her models down a sand-covered runway to dramatic string music, each one wearing a large, sculptural wig in a shape even more unusual than the last. She used a pallete that consisted almost exculsively of neutral beiges, browns, greys, ivorys and black, choosing instead to focus on the textures of her fabrics. Textiles ranged from ruffles of grosgrain and chiffon ribbons and soft suede vests to gold sequins and fuzzy heathered knits.
For her show entitled Silencio, designer MUG drew inspiration from the David Lynch film Mulholland Dr., dividing the collection into three groups: “a red and white series, Los Angeles grunge/street style, and more elegant pieces.” The clothes, in crushed velvet, fur, leather, chiffon and satin, had a hint of old Hollywood glamour mixed with a distinctly harder, modern feel. Pin curls and bright red lips completed the look.
Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets
The design team that goes by the names Cabaret Aki and Jackal Kuzu used military influences to lend a hard edge to fluid jersey, lace, fringe, and fur, but people don’t attend Gut’s Dynamite Cabarets shows for the clothes. Designer Aki entertained the crowd before the show in a pink bunny costume, and Kuzu riffed on an electric guitar as his models, some of them transvestites, strutted their stuff on the runway.
Tae Ashida once again showed her modern ladylike style with a collection of wool separates, cozy winter coats, and cocktail and evening dresses for fall. While the show was largely devoid of color, Ashida’s talent for accessorizing is undeniable. Chunky statement necklaces, gloves of every length, fur collars, dramatic hats, belts both wide and thin, clutch handbags, and dark sunglasses complemented the strong yet feminine silhouettes.
Daisuke Kamide created a virtual forest, complete with a ground covering of dead leaves, for his show at Shibuya’s Tokyu department store. His all-men’s collection featured layers of knit sweaters and scarves, tweed jackets and trousers, and corduroy shorts and jeans that at times seemed to blend almost seamlessly into the surroundings. A rustic pallete of chocolate brown, rust, oatmeal, charcoal grey, black and ochre completed the fairy tale-like feeling.
Photo credit: Photos courtesy of Japan Fashion Week Organization